New Place in an Old Space in West Memphis - Down South Burgers

I had been trying to revisit Willie Mae's Rib Haus on Broadway in West Memphis for several months but the place was closed down every time I'd drive by. I wasn't overly impressed with the ribs there on my first visit but I thought the restaurant showed enough promise that I didn't link my review of the place to Urbanspoon because I wanted to make a return trip to sample the pulled pork before forming my final opinion.

Last Monday I drove past and saw the the space was no longer Willie Mae's. It has been reborn as Down South Burgers and Rib Haus.

Along with burgers, barbecue and catfish the restaurant also serves breakfast in the morning.

The new restaurant already seems to be a hit with local residents. In my previous visit to Willie Mae's I was the only customer there. This time there were plenty of people eating burgers at tables and picking up carry-out burgers. And those burgers looked and smelled good enough that I was tempted to try a double instead of sampling the ribs. But I'm on a barbecue quest so I got a rib dinner. Down South doesn't have baked beans so I an order of onion rings to go with my barbecue and cole slaw.

Like when the place was called Willie Mae's that rib dinner came with just a third of a slab of ribs. But the dinner was less than $10 and the ribs had plenty of meat on them. The sauce was a definite improvement over the syrupy glaze my ribs had been drowning in during my Willie Mae's visit. The had a nice charred crust on them but were still tender and juicy.

The slaw was ultra-creamy, which isn't my personal preference at all. The onion rings were good and should make a great complement to one of the restaurant's double cheeseburgers that I will definitely be trying on my next visit based on the ones I saw other customers devouring. 

The building was cleaned up considerably before it reopened as Down South. There still isn't anything remotely fancy about it; it's just a simple place to pick up some honest Southern food. But from a business standpoint I can easily understand that a lot of potential customers see what I referred to as "the unfakeable, well-earned patina of a true survivor" in my Willie Mae's post as reason to dine elsewhere. A good scrubbing with some fresh paint; new counter and floors; and matching tables, chairs and table clothes definitely creates a more welcoming impression.

Incredible Ribs at my Neigborhood Dive Bar - Alex's

I had heard people claim that Alex's Tavern serves outstanding ribs but I always just associated the place with late-night drinking and extraordinary cheeseburgers. I live right off of Jackson Avenue near Rhodes College. Alex's is 1.2 miles from my front door. This can be handy yet dangerous at the same time. For those who are unfamiliar with the place, Alex's is one of those special Memphis bars you head to when the other bars start closing in the early a.m. hours. In this city, plenty of great stories start with the words, "We ended up going to Alex's last night after last call at (fill in the blank)." However, I doubt anyone has ever said the words, "Man, going to Alex's on the way home last night was a really good idea."

This is how Alex's looks when most customers see it. I stopped by on the way home after the P and H closed on Saturday night/Sunday morning just to bookend the day with Alex's visits.

I had started my day there with an order of ribs.

The concept of going to Alex's during daylight didn't seem as bizarre to me as it will to some people, since a I have a couple of fellow gearhead friends who live nearby and we occasionally swing by for burgers when we work up a hunger wrenching on old cars. If you are unfamiliar with the place's phenomenal Greek burgers, which get a generous dose of Greek seasoning before being cooked in a cast iron skillet, Seth over at the Best Memphis Burger blog does a great job describing them.

I had been up late Friday night working on rebuilding my '55 Ford with the above-mentioned friends so when I rolled out of bed Saturday afternoon I decided that I'd go ahead and try the ribs from Alex's for a mid-day first meal. As I was arriving I got a call from another friend in the neighborhood who was wanting to grab lunch and a beer who ended up joining me. Other than the bartender we were the only two people in the place, which is every bit as dimly lit at noon as it is at 3 a.m.

I was glad I ended up having a friend join me when the bartender told me that it would be 30 or 40 minutes before my ribs were ready. That news also reassured me that there was zero risk I was getting ribs reheated in a microwave.  He said he was out of beans and slaw but he offered us an order of his tasty Greek-seasoned fries instead. The owner, Rocky, is a Greek who believes every food is better with Greek seasoning. When I asked if the beans and slaw also have Greek seasoning when they are available I was told, "Everything here is seasoned with it. If you sit still long enough we're liable to sprinkle some on you."

When the ribs arrived they were outstandingly smoky, tender and delicious. The rumors were true; they really are some of the best ribs in the Memphis area. They were served the way I prefer -- dry rubbed with sauce on the side.They had a nice spicy kick and, unsurprisingly, a generous dusting of Greek seasoning. The seasoning is already famous for how well it works with Memphis-style ribs thanks to the Rendezvous restaurant Downtown, where owner Charles Vergos created a local institution with his Greek rendition of Memphis ribs.

When I asked what the secret to the ribs is the bartender chuckled and said, "We don't really do anything to them. That's why they are so good. It's just salt, pepper, Greek seasoning and eight hours of slow smoking before I hit them with my Greek barbecue sauce, wrap them in foil and smoke them some more. While they are cooking I spray them with apple juice."

In my post about creating my own barbecue on a $40 Brinkman smoker I mentioned that with proper technique and attention to detail a cheap smoker can make barbecue as good as any high-dollar commercial rig. Rocky has absolutely proven that.

This is where some of the best ribs in Memphis get created; an aging barrel smoker behind a Midtown dive bar. For great barbecue, knowledge and technique are worth more than expensive equipment.

I had heard that the ribs at Alex's were a Saturday special but Rocky said they have been enough of a hit that he tries to keep them around now. He smokes them several times a week as needed, but I'd still call before heading over to make sure they are available. The number is 901-278-9086. During my visit he said he was down to his last slab. Of course, if you ever show up and hear that some of the best ribs in town aren't available at the moment you still have the option of ordering one of the best burgers in town. Or some of the best wings in town. Rocky keeps the menu short, but that's because he doesn't put anything on it that he hasn't completely mastered.

Hot Rod and Barbecue Abundance in Holly Springs

As much as I love barbecue and classic cars, real world concerns are always placing a limit on the time and money I can devote to them. But imagine what life would be like for a normal, working guy from the South like me if money quit being an issue.

Last Saturday I drove my Mustang down to a barbecue at the Holly Springs estate of George Poteet, a local car buff who has been smashing landspeed records at the Bonneville Salt Flats in the fastest piston-engine, wheel-driven vehicle in history. I went to Bonneville with him for Speed Week when he first started breaking records back in 2006, when his fastest pass down the salt was "only" 338 mph. The first, and prior to Memphis Que only, blog I created was devoted to that bucket list trip. I got married the next year and haven't been able to make it back to the Mecca of high-speed hot rodding. But every August Poteet keeps going back and going faster, reaching a speed of 462 mph this year. 

For an idea of what this thing is like at 462 mph check out this Youtube video put together from cameras that were throughout the car during the run. It's only two minutes long. If you're a gearhead you'll end up watching four or five times in a row.

Even more amazing is that he is reaching speeds like that powered by a single 368 inch Mopar V8.

What the engine lacks in size it makes up for in forced induction with two huge turbochargers.

Every year since 1949 Hot Rod magazine has presented this trophy to the driver who travels the fastest mile on the Salt Flat's five-mile course.

The trophy has been in Poteet's shop for four years now. The names on it are like a who's who of racing legends like Alex Xydias, Al Teague and Mickey Thompson.

 

The barbecue was being prepared the Memphis Street Rods car club, who cooked 60 pork butts and a whole hog.

 

I was surprised by just how great the barbecue ended up being. The club members who smoked it seriously know what they are doing. Excellent texture, bark and smoke penetration.

 

This vintage John Deere ice cream maker produced 50 gallons of homemade ice cream for dessert for everybody.

Poteet made his money as vice president of National Safety Associates, Inc., during a time of rapid growth for the company when it first entered the home water filtration market. But I can remember sharing hotel rooms with he and my dad, who are friends and both members of the Memphis Street Rods, on trips to car shows back in the '80s before he reached  levels of wealth like this. Remember, every car pictured in this entire post belongs to the same guy. But despite his successes in the business world he is still a down-to-earth Mississippi gearhead. In fact he prefers not to be recognized when he attends car shows. He just gets to collect real cars the way some gearheads collect little diecast models.

Step behind the cars lined up outside the building and you'll find another row of them. Not only are all the cars immaculate, but almost all of them also sport rare, highly-sought after options, especially when it comes to the engines powering them.

Once you're done checking out all the cars from that building...

...You are standing in front of another building full of cars.

The 462-mph streamliner was in yet another building full of cars.

One of my favorite cars in the entire collection is this deceptively nostalgic looking little deuce coupe powered by a Roush-built Ford Windsor V8 backed by a five-speed.

I stopped in my tracks when I witnessed the Holy Grail of ultra-rare, ultra-powerful big Ford V8s sitting in a black Galaxie. The SOHC 427 "Cammer" was such a beast that NASCAR banned it out of fear in 1965 before it ever even got a chance to compete. I took the time to explain the engine's importance to my friend who was accompanying me. Then I walked on to the next car in the building and briefly thought I''d lost my mind when I saw what looked like the exact same engine compartment in another car.

One of the 427 Cammers is in a Starliner hardtop.

The other is in a Sunliner convertible. Other than the tops the cars are identical.

As soon as I noticed the old Dodge Super Bee I knew I'd see a 426 Hemi under the hood.

This heavily customized '69 Torino Talladega isn't even complete yet, but it's already a work of art sitting unfinished in bare metal.

Under the hood is another ultra-rare big Ford V8 -- an injected Boss 429.

 

Step out behind the shop and you are looking at a Galaxie raced by former NASCAR driver Fred Lorenzen.

Another building...

And another building...

And another building...

Of all the engine families in the world, the FE series of big-block Ford V8s has always had the most magnetic pull on my soul for reasons I can't logically explain. Poteet's collection includes plenty of exquisite examples.

From factory three deuces on a 390...

...to a factory dual quad 427.

As an afternoon shower moved in all the toys got stacked up and put away. I can't imagine how you decide what to drive each day when you're dealing with a collection like this.

Great Food and a Great View - Brooksie's Barn

For a city with a population of just 65,000 people Jackson, TN keeps amazing me with the amount of great barbecue places it has. Brooksie's Barn is just west of the 45 Bypass a little north of I-40. I first discovered the place several years ago when I had lunch there with one of my old college journalism professors who was living nearby at the time.

I remembered the place having a Southern food buffet and a plenty of seating next to large windows that provided a great view of the large pond behind the restaurant.

There wasn't any barbecue on the buffet when I stopped by for lunch on Wednesday but when I asked the hostess she told me I could order it off the menu. I was happy to hear that the ribs automatically come the way I like them; dry rubbed with sauce on the side. And I had a choice between vinegar or mayo-based slaw. I opted for the vinegar since I don't like overly creamy slaw. It's nice to see a restaurant acknowledge the creamy versus non-creamy rift in slaw philosophy and cater to both tastes.

The meaty ribs ended up having a fantastic flavor with a nice smoke ring and a flavorful enough rub that they didn't need any sauce. I still added a little since the ultra thin and vinegary hot sauce served on the side provided a nice extra kick without making the ribs seem "saucy." The generous servings of beans and slaw were also good enough to make the meal an incredible value for the $10.95 price. And the service was great too. My waitress did an excellent job and the restaurant's owner stopped by as I was finishing my meal to ask how my experience was. Anyone who is a fan of great West Tennessee barbecue ribs and who finds themselves traveling along I-40 through Jackson needs to plan to stop and sample some of the incredible local options. Brooksie's, Latham's Meat Company, Backyard Bar-Be-Cue and the Reggi's Bar-B-Q restaurant are all just minutes away from the Interstate as you travel through the city and all of them are so good I couldn't pick out a single favorite to recommend. Just know that ribs from any of them should be a treat. 

Back in Memphis - King's Palace and Much More

As much as I enjoyed my week-long vacation in San Francisco it felt good to be back home in the city I love. I ended up spending my first week back eating at a lot of my favorite haunts like Three Little Pigs, Southern Hands, Joann's Family Affair and Tops while enjoying the seemingly endless variety of fun things to do that Memphis offers this time of year. 

Monday was the first time since my return home that I slowed down to sample some new-to-me barbecue when I stopped in to the King's Palace Cafe on Beale Street for lunch. Like B.B. King's Blues Club and the Rum Boogie Cafe, King's Palace has shunned canned music in favor of sticking to the live music that made Beale famous, however there wasn't a band playing during my lunchtime visit.  I was there to try barbecue, but a combination of dreary weather and a Cajun-heavy menu made me decide to order a cup of shrimp and crawfish etouffee to go along with my barbecue platter.

I was glad I did. The subtly spicy etouffee ended up overshadowing the barbecue enough that if you end up visiting King's Palace I'd recommend sticking to the Cajun cooking the restaurant specializes in. The barbecue platter came with a few ribs, some pulled pork, "voodoo potato salad," and cole slaw. At $5.75 for the etouffee and $10.75 for the platter King's Palace didn't seem as overpriced as a lot of the Beale Street clubs. Based and the etouffee I'd enjoyed I was surprised by how bland the potato salad was despite its voodoo name and peppery appearance. The cole slaw also fooled me by looking like it would have a nice mustard flavor when it ended up being overly sweet instead.

The ribs and pulled pork once again left me concerned that tourists who visit Memphis and only try barbecue on Beale have to leave here wondering why we are so proud of our area's barbecue. All the pork was swimming in an overly sweet sauce. The ribs had a pretty good flavor hiding underneath the sauce but they were a little tough. The mushy pulled pork reminded me of some heat-and-serve stuff from Schwan's that I tried back in college because a friend's mom had bought it for him. The Schwan's pulled pork was tolerable back then. It was free sustenance at a time I was living off of SpagettiO's, grilled cheese, Hamburger Helper and peanut butter and jelly sandwiches. At King's Palace finishing the pulled pork felt like a chore. Barbecue is supposed to be tender but it should still have a meaty consistency.

My visit to King's Palace in one of the most touristy sections of Memphis came on the heels of a week that showcases just how much fun the city offers its residents during the spring and fall periods where the weather gets "just right". And a week on the West Coast caused me to truly appreciate just how cheap it is to go out and have fun here. Seriously, if anyone ever complains that there is nothing to do here they need to get out of the house more often.

I'd arrived back in town just in time for the annual Rock For Love event that raises money for the Church Health Center, a local organization that provides health care for the uninsured workers and their families. The event included impressive live performances by a slate of great musicians at Overton Square and the Hi-Tone (a club that was home to Elvis Presley's kung fu dojo back in the '70s). Then it wrapped up with a free concert at the Levitt Shell featuring soul legend Booker T.

Local rapper Al Kapone, who wrote a lot of the best tracks on the Hustle & Flow soundtrack, warmed the crowd up.

Booker T closed out Rock For Love playing old hits like Green Onions to a packed crowd at the Levitt Shell. The Shell is a venue were Elvis played during his early days. At one point Booker T introduced a cover of Bob Dylan's Knockin' on Heaven's Door by talking about laying down the bass recording for the original song. Lots of bands cover the song, but no one else introduces it with, "I remember when my friend Bob first approached me about playing bass on this song..."

A few days after Rock For Love I ended up taking an extended lunch break in the middle of a Thursday to watch the action at Memphis International Raceway when Hot Rod Magazine Drag Week rolled through town. Most people mentally associate the Mid-south with music and barbecue. But even most locals don't realize how much of a player the area is in the high-performance automotive industry. Aftermarket heavyweights like Comp Cams, Lunati, Eagle Crankshaft, Hypertech, Bullett Cams, Walker Radiator, Cooling Components and Performance Distributors make their homes the area.

I was already working near the track in Millington on Thursday. I take an event like this as a sign that fate is telling me to ditch work for a few hours. Especially when the entry fee is only $5 and the event is scheduled to be done by 1 p.m.

Back in 2004 Memphis was home to the first Hot Rod Magazine Pump Gas Drags, an early attempt to find the fastest legit street car in the country. After that event people were claiming that cars dipping into the nine second realm in the quarter-mile couldn't possibly be real street cars. There were several more Pump Gas Drags held here before the event morphed into the even more brutal competition known as Drag Week.

This year's Drag Week was a 1,400-mile torture test that started in Tulsa, OK. The cars raced there; then in Ennis, TX; Gillian, LA, and here before heading back to Tulsa for the final round. The car with the fastest average time from runs at every track won its class. 

The racing action was constant with a new round of cars staging as soon as a pass was completed. The blistering times some of the cars were running was insane given the reliability they had to deliver to make the entire drive.

The tight schedule made the pits almost as intense to watch as the races themselves.

When I said no trailers I meant the cars couldn't be trailered. If you were comfortable PULLING a trailer of extra gear with your race car it was more power to you.

This console was inside a vintage Mustang. Race car aesthetic combined with cupholder and cell phone charger.

A Challenger tearing down the track...

Then immediately swapping rear tires, making repairs and detuning for the drive to the next track in Oklahoma.

A '57 Chevy lays down a 7.17 second pass at 193 mph. It was the fastest pass of the day until a Nova ripped a 7.04 at 208 mph. I thought I'd got an excellent video of the Nova until after the pass when I realized my memory card was full. Doh!

Saturday was devoted to the annual day-long mega party known as Cooper-Young Festival. It was the festival's 25th anniversary and it keeps growing in size. Over the course of those 25 years the Cooper-Young neighborhood in Midtown has seen a tremendous revitalization and the festival now spans several blocks in each direction from its namesake intersection with countless house parties in the neighborhood continuing long after it is officially over.

Later the same Monday I had lunch at King's Palace I went by the Abbey, an all-ages venue in the basement of Lifelink church in Cooper-Young, to see extraordinary Celtic punk rockers Flatfoot 56. The cover was only $7. The venue is located in the same room where Johnny Cash gave his first live performance playing a church bake sale. Sometimes it seems like you can't go anywhere in Memphis without running into music history.

Tuesday night I stopped by the Booksellers at Lauralwood where Blake Fontenay was signing and discussing his new novel The Politics of Barbecue. Fontenay spent ten years covering local politics for the Commercial Appeal newspaper so he has a good understanding of the dirty side of politics here. The book centers around a barbecue restaurant owner who gets himself elected mayor and the corruption that ends up surrounding a push to bring a Barbecue Hall of Fame to the city. Expect a full review soon.

The Overton Square and Levitt Shell events I attended during Rock For Love were both free while the show I saw at the Hi-Tone had a $10 cover. Drag Week had a $5 admission fee, entry to Cooper-Young Fest is free and the cover for Flatfoot 56 was $7. The book signing/discussion was also free, although I naturally bought a copy of the book while I was there. Attending everything I've described in this post cost me a total of $22 in entry fees. That is an unreal value in bang-for-buck entertainment.