Wednesday, June 4, 2014

Former Coleman's Locations Re-reborn - Smokin D's and Moma's

Coleman's Bar-B-Q was one of the biggest names in Memphis-area barbecue in the '60s and '70s with locations throughout the Mid-south. You can still eat a great Coleman's sandwich at their locations on Millbranch and in Hernando. And you can read about the chain's rise and fall in my new book on Memphis barbecue. A good number of the former Coleman's locations still survive today, cooking with the old brick and steel charcoal pits at places like Captain John's in Collierville and Showboat in Hickory Hill.

I recently revisited two former Coleman's locations that reopened in what became longtime home's to other barbecue joints. Moma's B-B-Q in Bartlett suffered a devastating last year that forced a major renovation while the former Barb-A-Rosa in Millington, which also started life as a Coleman's, reopened as Smokin D's Pit Stop.

The old Barb-A-Rosa building on Highway 51 went through a major renovation to get it up to code after Barb-A-Rosa's closed, thus ending the grandfathered status the building had enjoyed on numerous code issues. I have posted a couple times about the disappointing experiences I've had when I've eaten at Barb-A-Rosa. And I've had several readers argue that their experiences with the restaurant had always been great.

I recently got some clarification on the differences in opinions from some friends who work near the restaurant. Apparently Barb-A-Rosa served quality barbecue for a couple decades, before the woman who owned it was sadly diagnosed with cancer.  After that multiple people tried running the place for short periods of time, but none of them lasted very long. All my experiences eating there were in the building's final period under the Barb-A-Rosa name, but I never ate there when the original owner was in charge, serving what I have been told was top-notch barbecue.

The new owner, who rebranded the place Smokin D's, spent months updating the building while I kept an eye on it every time I was in Millington, waiting for a chance to give the new place a try. I finally saw the open sign in the window a couple weeks ago and stopped in to order a shoulder plate with beans and slaw.

Everything was impressive. The beans had huge pieces of meat in them. The chunky mayo slaw paired well the charcoal-cooked Boston butt meat that had a nice mix of textures from the outer bark and inner meat. I ordered the hot barbecue sauce on the side and while the meat was good enough to eat without it, I still enjoyed dipping bites in it. 

One thing I noticed on the menu that intrigued me was the Chicago-style hot dog. My same friends who told me about the original Barb-A-Rosa's owner happened to be having lunch when I stopped in and they informed me the Smokin D's owner was related to the owner of the old Jimmy's Hot Dogs in Bartlett. I could see tubs of homemade vegetable-heavy hot dog dressing on the counter, so I stopped back in later the same day for a hobbit-style "second lunch." There are two dressings -- a mild and a hot. I ordered the jalapeno-heavy hot and it was an impressive dog for a little over $3. It was a large dog served on a massive bun, although I discarded the bun to eat the hot dog and dressing with a fork.

The next time I stopped in I ordered ribs, which are served wet. Some of my favorite wet ribs come from a former Coleman's location in Collierville called Captain John's so I had high hopes. These looked great and the taste and texture wasn't bad, but they didn't measure up against the ribs at Old Timers and Pig-N-Whistle*, so when I am in Millington wanting ribs I'll stick to those places. But I will be a repeat customer for the pork shoulder plate.

Like Barb-A-Rosa, Moma's is another place I've knocked in the past. But after their recent fire and rebuild I decided to give them another chance. I'm glad I did. It is interesting to note that, despite the old charcoal-only pit, the fire was caused by a fryer, not the barbecue pit.

Since Moma's, like the Coleman's that preceded it, is primarily a "sandwich shop" I basically ordered a deconstructed sandwich meal by getting shoulder plate with slaw and fries, which came with a toasted bun. The pulled pork was completely different than the disappointing finely chopped, somewhat tough, meat I'd had in the past. The mix of textures was fantastic. Along with the inner meat and bark there was a nice ratio of smoked skin. Smoked and charred skin adds an amazing extra element to barbecue and is something you don't find in many Memphis-area barbecue joints.

There was one large piece of unrendered fat that was easy to avoid while eating a pile of meat with a fork. I can see where it could catch someone eating a sandwich off guard, but it would be well-worth the few seconds it would take to discreetly spit it out for the otherwise perfect mixture of shoulder meat served on my plate. The sauce was offered in hot and mild. I'd ordered the hot and on this trip it was a perfect accompaniment. The fries and slaw were also solid. I ended up scooping most of the slaw on top of the meat to eat them together.

This was good barbecue. I've had plenty of not good barbecue from Moma's in the past, so I'm not sure what changed after the fire, but I know I'm not imagining things. I noticed that ribs had been dropped from the menu. I've had some really bad ribs from Moma's in the past. In fact, I specifically went to Moma's because my dad wasn't able to join me for lunch. I'd been meaning to retry Moma's and the nearby Baby Jack's for months, since Moma's had rebuilt and I noticed Baby Jack's recently added a real barbecue pit to the side of its building. But I usually take my dad to lunch when I am in that part of town and both places have served him bad barbecue a couple of times. He still talks about his memories of some terrible ribs he had from Moma's years ago. My dad is a firm believer that if your restaurant has served him bad barbecue more than once you are dead to him, while I am more willing to offer a later chance.

Basically, I don't know if rebuilding after a fire caused some big change in cooking philosophy at Moma's. I just know the meal I ate Tuesday was way better than anything I've had there in the past. It was fairly perfect shoulder meat. So if you've ever had a bad experience there, go give the place a second chance.

*Since my initial post about the Millington Pig-N-Whistle I've since tried their ribs "muddy" and highly recommend a trip there to try their ribs in this uniquely Memphis sauce-with-dry-rub style.

Moma's Bar-B-Q on Urbanspoon


  1. I have some comments to add re: Chicago Hot Dog. As someone who grew up in the suburbs of Chicago, classifying something as a Chicago Hot Dog is a very specific definition of a food item for those that live there. (Much like BBQ means smoked over hot coals to a BBQ purist)The pic is most definetly not of a Chicago style hot dog. A Chicago style hot dog is a depression era- street food that is meant to satisfy with its plethora of toppings that arguably is the main eating experience while the hot dog is background. A Chicago Style dog is a Rosen poppy seed hot dog bun with a Vienna beef hot dog, topped with nuclear green relish, mustard, onion, celery salt, tomato, sport peppers (same peppers as in the bruce's vinegar jar in the south) and a pickle spear. Ketchup is not allowed near a Chicago style hot dog. In Chicago, you ask for a dog "dragged through the garden" (You wouldn't ask for Memphis Style bbq in a Memphis bbq joint, right?)The "dressing" you refer to seems looks to be a local Chicago condiment that is often served on their "Italian Beef" sandwich (absolutely to die for). It is called Giardiniera, and is typically served as either hot or mild. (the hot has more Serrano peppers) Giardinera is a preservation technique for regular garden veggies that Italians historically made due to the abundance of their harvest. Jimmy's Hot Dogs were authentic. There is a place called Wiseguys in Southaven that has authentic Chicago dogs and Italian beef sandwiches. -Bernot

    1. Thanks for the background Bernot. It definitely didn't match the traditional dogs at Hot Doug's, which we visited the last time we were in Chicago. I was just calling it what the menu called it. I've heard good things about Wise Guys. I'll have to check it out.

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