I’d noticed the Four Sisters Soul Food Place and its hand-painted “No cans, straight from the pan" sign when I tried Reese's Bar-B-Q next door to them a few weeks ago. So when I was back on Winchester in the Parkway Village area today, with intense freezing-cold wind spitting snow flurries at me, it seemed like a good time to stop in and grab some hot, stick-to-your-ribs soul food.
The cramped restaurant shares a parking lot with an adjoining gas station and is definitely geared towards carry-out business, but it does have two tables squeezed into the front along with a couple barstools at the order counter. The menu for the day is written on a dry-erase board on the counter. Today’s two meat choices were calf’s liver and pork neck bones. The ultra-condensed menu made it kind of like eating home cooking at a close relative’s house -- “Here are your options, pick something and eat it.” It’s definitely not somewhere you should go if you’re a picky eater who demands plenty of “basic" options. The vegetable choices were greens, corn, yams and macaroni and cheese, which maintained the perfect streak of mac and cheese being offered as a vegetable at every soul food place I’ve visited in Memphis.
I told the boisterously friendly owner that I’d take an order of neck bones with greens and corn. I also tried to order a hot tamale to go with my order, since there was a sign saying they were a $1 side item, but she said they were out. When she realized I was eating in the restaurant she turned off her car that was apparently warming up in front of the store in preparation for her to briefly close down and run an errand. “Bitch got the nerve to call and ask for a ride from Olive Branch after I gave her broke ass a dinner for $2 yesterday. She can wait anyway,” was the cheerfully-delivered official explanation.
The generous serving of neck bone was extremely tender and flavorful. The greens had a good flavor, and plenty of pork in them, but they were a little cold. The buttered corn tasted like buttered corn. I’m not sure if it came from a can or not, but it isn’t really a dish that varies much from one restaurant to the next either. All together, it was a satisfying meal for just $6 and I’ll probably be stopping by again when I’m in the neighborhood, but I wouldn’t make a special destination out of it like I would the Four Way or At The Bistro.