Tuesday, November 22, 2011

A High-Rent Area Hole-in-the-Wall - One & Only

One & Only BBQ is a clean and polished rendition of a little hole-in-wall barbecue joint hiding in a shopping center on the Germantown side of East Memphis on Kirby, just north of Poplar. It’s definitely geared towards carry-out customers, but my wife and I found room at one of the restaurant’s handful of small tables last Friday night to sit down and sample some good barbecue and some spectacular potato salad.

My wife got a two meat plate with pulled pork, smoked turkey, beans and mustard potato salad while I got a half-slab of dry ribs with beans, slaw and the twice-baked potato salad. My wife thought the pulled pork was a little bland since there was no smoke flavor. We both enjoyed the tender, juicy and heavily salted smoked turkey. It's a great menu item if you're dining with anyone who wants to eat something other than pork. The dry ribs had an excellent texture and rub. We were both big fans of One & Only’s hot barbecue sauce on all our meats.

Like the pulled pork, my ribs didn’t have any smoke flavor and they lacked the tell-tale pink coloring that indicates when ribs have absorbed plenty of smoke. I’m sure that is due to location in a large shopping center in a fairly affluent area. They are probably forced to rely entirely on a gas grille since their neighbors would have a meltdown if they enveloped the outside of their store in a glorious pork-scented charcoal haze like the one you frequently see outside of places like Cozy Corner on North Parkway.

The roughly-chopped cole slaw seemed bland, but I think that is because I was trying it beside two different varieties of outstanding potato salad. In fact, I’d call the restaurant’s mustard-based potato salad one of the best in town if it hadn’t been overshadowed itself by the twice-baked potato salad, which was loaded with bacon, sour cream and chives. My wife and I both agreed that ribs with beans and the twice-baked potato salad would be the perfect order for future visits. The menu also listed deviled eggs for $0.30 each, so I’ll have to give a few of them of them a try on a future visit as well.

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  1. Their twiced baked potato salad is flippin' awesome. It renders most potato salad competitors vastly inferior.

    1. I couldn't agree more. It totally changed my perspective on what potato salad can be.